Is South Africa the world's most exciting wine region?

Following his recent visit to Cape Wine Richard Siddle reflects why there’s such a massive buzz about the South African wine scene at the moment and whether it will pass on to consumers.

Considering the level of expertise and intense competition that exists between winemakers and wine regions around the world, it is some accolade to be described as the "most exciting wine-producing country on the planet".


But that is exactly how far South Africa has come. What's more it has largely done so in the last three years. 


Such levels of praise and commendation do not come readily from a well travelled, and largely sceptical wine trade.
 But when you have Tim Atkin MW, one of the most critical of wine critics, publicly award you the “most exciting" tag then you really know you are on to something.


South Africa has reached such giddy heights on the back of a new generation of winemakers who have been willing to go out and embrace the history and knowhow of Old World classic regions like Rhône, Burgundy and Bordeaux.



In the past they were simply happy to try and mimic those styles of wine in South Africa. They have now collectively understood how to take those influences and integrate them into a terroir and a climate that make South Africa such a unique place to make wine.


What sommeliers are saying about South Africa

Just how far South Africa has advanced in winemaking credibility shines out loud and clear when talking to a group of British and American sommeliers who were visiting the country, some for the first time, at last month's international Cape Wine exhibition.


They were simply bowled over by what they discovered, demolishing the perception that this was a country operating best at the entry level bulk wine end of the market.


Instead they found wines that were no longer simply copying classical France but had the quality, and - vitally - price point, to actually take them on and, in some cases, beat them, said Canadian sommelier, William Predhomme (right).

“The market just has to wake up to what is happening in South Africa. It has the potential to replace Rhône and Bordeaux on some wine lists. The wines are that cutting edge and that awesome. It is the new frontier,” said Predhomme.

Closer to home Zack Charilaou (below), wine director at M Restaurants, the premium London steak restaurant that features a strong list of South African wines, was equally impressed.

“What I enjoyed most was their new found versatility. For example, Mulderbosch is producing some outstanding single lot Chenin Blancs. Cape Point is making some of the best Sauvignon Blanc I have tasted in the New World and Ken Forrester in Helderberg is creating red Rhône blends that would sit alongside some of the best French alternatives,” he said.

“One common denominator was they all looked at their terroir before deciding on their wines.”

But he stressed the country has to work a lot harder to build a loyal and reliable customer base.

“I think it is unlikely South African wine is really going to take off,” he argued. “Serious wine drinkers are the ones most likely to entertain trying wines they normally wouldn’t, so South Africa’s move towards more higher quality wines will certainly help them. However, how many people really drink wine at £30 plus retail?”

The most exciting aspect of South Africa, stressed James Tidwell of the Four Seasons hotel in Dallas, is what is going to come next. He was particularly encouraged to see new clones of vines being planted, which considering the country's recent track record in viticulture, makes you only imagine what can be achieved in the future.

“South Africa,” he added, “has three unique things going for it: the place; the way it is making wine; and the personality and dynamism of the people.” 

Equally the challenge for independent wine merchants is matching the clear quality in South African wine, with a big enough customer base in the UK to buy it.

John Chapman of the Oxford Wine Company and Nicholas Corke of Thomas Peatling in Bury-St-Edmunds both agree that whilst there is no shortage of choice, particularly in the juicy £10-£30 price bracket, it is not always easy finding customers willing to trade up to South Africa. Despite what Chapman describes as its “sex appeal”.

If the international wine trade is only just waking up to what is going on in the Cape then what chance does the average wine drinker have? Or even the educated wine consumer who has been fed the long-standing story that the Old World is best for quality, reliability and until recently, value.

There are many merchants and winemakers in South Africa who would argue South Africa is closest to bridging the gap between the old and new worlds. 

The challenge for both parties is helping the wine consumer cross that bridge. Other than the mass market, promotionally driven brands like Kumala and Cape Wine, South Africa lacks those big mainstream premium brands, like Villa Maria in New Zealand or Wolf Blass in Australia, to help make that journey.


But what it does have, if you can excuse the football parlance of the day, is "Klopp-ability". It has personality and inspiration in spades. 
South African winemakers don't stand emotionless behind tasting tables talking endlessly about malolactic fermentation. 


Its new generation of winemakers are determined to make their own history, based on their own identity and that sense of purpose is not only infectious but can now be seen in so many of its wines. 
This is a generation of winemakers not held back by their past.

They are also all in it together. When they are not on their own making wine, they are out together surfing, mountain bike riding, playing cricket, rugby or happy hanging out talking wine with a beer over a braii.

It is that level of friendship and collaboration that really gives South Africa an edge on its competitors. Unlike Australia, for example, most of the main wine regions are all close by and new ways of working and making wine travel fast.

It is what Alex Starey at Keermont (top) one of the stars of South Africa’s new generation of winemakers, enjoys most about being part of this exciting time. “I can just call up any other winemaker and ask them how they made their wines, down to the exact clone they have used. I love the fact we can do that in our industry,” he said.


Making wine is just part of their passion for life and excitement for making a difference in their lives. And you don't need a bushy beard and ponytail to join in.


They are, equally importantly, re-enthusing the winemakers who helped put South Africa on the global wine map in the first place.




Six wines to help you get to know the new South Africa

Keermont Syrah 2012, Keermont Vineyards, Stellenbosch £29.50 (Swig Wines has the 2011) Alex Starey is one of best and nicest winemakers in South Africa. He’s also a super cool surfer. But it is his syrahs that are turning heads both in and outside South Africa.

Tamboerskloof Syrah 2009, from Kleinood Winery, Stellenbosch £16.99 (The Salusbury Wine Store, The Wine Tasting Shop, Wine Utopia) Produced just next door to Keermont by surfing buddy Gunter Shultz this is also benchmark for the syrah being produced in South Africa.

Creation Syrah, Grenache 2012, Creation Winery, Hemel & Aaarde £17.89 (Bibendum, SA Wines Online) I was blown away by this winery’s range of wines when I first tasted them in 2008 and it continues to deliver across the board. Red or white. Take your pick.

Patatsfontein Chenin Blanc 2014, (grapes grown at Patasfontein vineyard in Montagu and made at Boschkloof, Stellenbosch) £29.95 (Edgmond Wines) A great example of the standard of super premium Chenin Blancs being produced in South Africa and has two of the most in demand winemakers behind it, Reneen Borman and Chris Alheit.

Newton Johnson Family Vineyards Southend Chardonnay 2013, Newton Johnson Wines, Hemel & Aarde, £13.89 (Bibendum) I first came across this on my visit last month and was blown away by the minerality that is such a feature of the wines grown in the Hermanus and Hemel-en-Aarde.

Catherine Marshall, Sauvignon Blanc 2014, Elgin £10.90 (Seckford Wine Agencies, Tanners Wine Merchants) A lovely long, clean, zesty style Sauvignon Blanc far removed from its New Zealand alternatives. This wine comes from one of the first so-called garagiste winemakers in South Africa and is typical of Catherine's approach to only use grapes in her wines that are true to the identity of the soils on which they are grown

Richard Siddle travelled to South Africa with Wines of South Africa. He is a freelance journalist, media consultant and the former editor of UK trade magazine Harper Wine & Spirit. He also has his own site richardsiddle.com

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