Top pairings

10 top Austrian dry whites - a personal pick

Posted by Fiona Beckett (Google+) on March 4 2009 at 10:56

Continuing our series where guest wine writers pick their top wines from the major London wine tastings here are wine writer David Furer’s favourite whites from the recent Wines of Austria tasting, together with his suggested food pairings.

David writes: The following list is by no means exhaustive, only a tiny snapshot of the many terrific wines available in the UK which I tasted the annual February tasting of Wines from Austria in London

Brndlmayer Riesling Heiligenstein Alte Reben Niedersterreich 2005
32 Richards Walford 01780 460 451 www.r-w.co.uk
US: Michael Skurnik Wines www.skurnikwines.com
In the charming Kamptal wine village of Langenlois rests one of Austria’s best-distributed family wine labels. Willi Brndlmayer’s production is culled from a relatively large estate, 70ha owned and 12ha rented. The estate’s dedication to the use of old wood and avoidance of malolactic conversion reflects that of his close friend and colleague, Schloss Gobelsburg’s Michael Moosbruger. This earth-, honey- and fruit-layered riesling is a classic. Its minerally structure braces the understated fruit and finishes both long and complex. Suits the fresh salmon marinated in chive-infused oil with radish sprouts at Fred Loimer’s Loisium restaurant.

Birgit Eichinger Grner Veltliner Hasel Kamptal 2007
10 Armit Wines 020 7908 0600 www.armit.co.uk
US: Weygandt-Metzeler www.weygandtmetzler.com
I first took notice of Frau Eichinger’s clean and straight wines (stainless steel and added yeasts are the rule here) at last year’s Austrian tasting. While it was a noble 2006 riesling which then intrigued me it was a far more accessible gv from less-favored loess soils which delighted me last month. Concentrated dried yellow fruits with a powerful and long high-acid finish. She recommends this with sea bass sashimi drizzled with yuzu sauce such as she tried the previous evening at London’s Zuma restaurant.

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