Match of the week
Duck and waffle and saison beer
Unusually this week’s match is speculative - an imagined pairing rather than an actual one.
It’s the signature dish of the Duck & Waffle which occupies a dramatic site on the 40th floor of the Heron Tower with spectacular views over the City of London. We were there for breakfast and it went perfectly well with the black Americano coffee I’d ordered but as it’s available at other times I was wondering what I’d drink if I’d ordered it at 2am (the restaurant is open round the clock).
The dish is an intriguing mixture of sweet and salty. A spicy confit duck leg on a waffle, topped with an egg with mustard-spiked maple syrup poured over the top. Outrageously good though I struggled to think of a wine that would match. Tokaji might though I think a dessert wine would overdo the sweetness.
My friend Sig suggested bourbon which would certainly work flavour-wise but might be a touch too strong. A Manhattan maybe …
Then I had a chat on Twitter with the chef Dan Doherty and we decided that what it needed was a beer - a rich strong saison for preference. You could probably also get away with a blonde ale or even a strong golden ale like Duvel. Or maybe Deus, a Belgian Tripel brewed with champagne yeast. In fact once you start thinking about beer there seem limitless possibilities. You could even drink a breakfast beer - if the Duck & Waffle had one. (I’m hoping this post will encourage them to enlarge their beer list!)
If you’re not able to get to the Duck and Waffle you can find the recipe in Dan’s recently published book of the same name.
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