Match of the week

Poached turbot with champagne
Of all the wine matches I enjoyed last week - and it was an unusually good week for food and drink pairings - I’m going for this dish of poached turbot with champagne - not because it was startlingly original but simply so brilliantly executed.
The dish, which was served at a Champagne Leclerc Briant lunch at London's quo vadis, was more than just turbot (although that would have been good enough).
It was cooked with fabulously plump mussels and clams and an absolutely classic white wine (or maybe champagne) sauce with butter and cream and sea-vegetables which provided an attractively saline counterpoint. Oh and some unctuous olive oil mash.
It was served - extravagantly - with three different cuvées, the Clos des Trois Clochers, blanc de blancs brut 2017 and two 2016s, the Les Basses Priéres 1er Cru, brut zéro which is 80% pinot noir and the Blanc de Meuniers 1er Cru brut zéro which as the name suggests is 100% pinot meunier.
Frankly any one of them would have been perfect but I personally preferred the 2017 blanc de blancs with the sauce. (All Leclerc Briant’s champagnes, which you can buy from Berry Bros & Rudd if you’re feeling particularly flush, are vintage)
Anyway it’s hard to think of a better champagne dish - or a better champagne to go with it tbh.
I attended the lunch as a guest of Berry Bros & Rudd.

Turbot paired with white Chateauneuf-du-Pape
This week I’ve been celebrating a big birthday with some extravagant feasting including a sublime dinner on the night at my son’s restaurant Hawksmoor Borough. (Well, you might as well keep it in the family!)
There was - of course - some magnificent beef - from my good pal Pete Hannan of the Meat Merchant and some terrific reds to go with it including a beautiful Conti Costanti Brunello, a Barbera from Guasti Clementi and a magnum of Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape (excuse lack of vintage information but it *was* my birthday) but the pairing that really stood out for me was a 2016 white Chateauneuf-du-Pape from Chateau La Nerthe which we drank with the turbot. (You can read about the estate which is farmed organically here.)
Turbot is a meaty fish that suits a rich-full flavoured white but that was accentuated by it being served with crispy chicken skin (yes, as good as it sounds!) and chicken jus which made the match even more sublime.
For other turbot matches see The Best Wine Matches for Turbot

Roast turbot with wild mushrooms and white Minervois
I spent last week in the Languedoc where we visit quite regularly so there weren’t many new food and wine discoveries to be made but I think the most thought-provoking match was a main course dish of roast turbot with girolles and a bottle of Château Cabezac 'Alice' 2008 from the Minervois I had at a restaurant in Agde called Le Bistrot d’Hervé.
Turbot is a fine fish and this was by no means a major wine but it was in the right register. It was an unoaked blend of Grenache Blanc, Muscat and Bourboulenc - earthy rather than fruity - which suited the slightly meaty texture of the fish and richness of the accompanying mushrooms. A better match would have been a fine white Rhône such as a Hermitage or Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe, a white burgundy (or similar cool climate Chardonnay), a traditional oak-aged white Rioja or a bottle of Champagne which, by coincidence, was what the table next door were drinking with their turbot (Pol Roger, to be precise).
I bet they paid a fair bit for it. I like the food at this restaurant but the mark-ups are excessive, even allowing for the exchange rate. The Cabezac ‘Alice’ sells at €5.50 from the domaine and they’re selling it for 21€, almost four times as much.
Starters are pricey too for a bistro - between 12€ and 16€ and there’s no set menu on a weekend evening. It seems that bistrots, spelt with a ‘t’ are as little related to bistros as gastropubs are to pubs these days. Even in a small town in France.
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