Match of the week

Chocolate marmalade slump cake with Tokaji dessert wine

Chocolate marmalade slump cake with Tokaji dessert wine

As we have so much freshly made marmalade in the house I thought I’d make some kind of marmalade pudding as my contribution to the lunch we had with friends yesterday and settled on this chocolate marmalade slump cake from Lucas Hollweg’s marvellous Good Things to Eat.

It’s a deeply chocolatey flourless cake (how much more appealing does that sound than ‘gluten-free’?) that tastes a bit like an orangey brownie so the wine that immediately occurred to me to pair with it was a Tokaji.

We happened to have a bottle of the 2002 Kiralyudvar 6 Puttonyos hanging around which was still wonderfully fresh and with its own marmaladey flavour picked up perfectly on the orange notes of the cake. (I wouldn't match it with something like a marmalade steamed pudding though - there wouldn't be enough contrast.)

You wouldn't of course have to find a Tokaji this old for a similar match - a younger Tokaji would do.

(If you’re wondering what the ‘slump’ bit means the cake depends like a soufflé on eggs for rising and falls back once you take it out of the oven.)

You can read more about Kiralyudvar on the US Rare Wine Co's site. For a full review of Good Things to Eat see here.

Whisky tangerine cocktail and buttered toast

Whisky tangerine cocktail and buttered toast

This might sound a wacky pairing (OK, it is) but it’s sooo good I had to pass it on. One for Christmas morning, even.

It was created by the great Nick Strangeway at a fascinating event I went to called The Art of Blending which brought together a chocolatier (Chantal Coady of Rococo), a tea blender (Henrietta Lovell of Rare Tea Company) a perfumer (Angela Flanders), a mixologist (Nick) and Dr Jim Beveridge, the master blender of Johnnie Walker which sponsored the evening.

The idea obviously was to show that blended whisky is not an inferior product by showing how other preparations and high-end products benefit from being blended, cocktails being one.

Nick made this extraordinarily delicious cocktail from a bitter orange syrup - essentially an unset marmalade with peated malted barley added, shaken with Johnnie Walker Blue then handed round some buttered toast for us to nibble with it. Amazing - the cocktail tasted like liquid marmalade.

Obviously this wouldn’t be that easy to replicate at home but there are plenty of recipes for breakfast martinis which should work equally well particularly if you can make them with homemade or, even better, a freshly made marmalade.

Hawksmoor’s* version is below:

1 tsp bitter orange marmalade

50ml good gin such as Beefeater

5ml Campari

15ml lemon juice

a dash of orange bitters

a twist of orange peel

Place a heaped barspoon (or teaspoon) of marmalade in a shaker. Add the gin and stir, pressing the marmalade against the side of the shaker to loosen it up. Add the other ingredients, fill up the shaker with ice cubes and shake hard to break down and dissolve the marmalade. Strain into a martini glass and serve with a twist of orange peel.

The other option is to use Chase’s marmalade-flavoured vodka.

Breakfasts will never be the same again . . .

* recipe from Hawksmoor at Home, published by Preface Publishing at £25

 

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