Match of the week

Duck tagine and Moscatel

Duck tagine and Moscatel

I certainly feel duck’s status as one of the best ingredients to pair with wine has been enhanced by this week’s match of the week

It was one of the main two courses at the latest session of the monthly wine club I’m running with Itamar Srulovich and his wife Sarit at Honey & Co and as ever with those two was incredibly inventive: basically a duck tagine with clementines and apricots toped with kadaif pastry - an ultra-exotic duck pie for which I hope they’ll at some point give the recipe!

It went well with a number of the full-bodied white wines we tried with it but I particularly liked it with the headily aromatic 2013 De Martino Moscatel Viejas Tinajas from Chile which is aged in clay amphorae (a pairing that makes sense when you think how well duck goes with gewurztraminer). It also went really well with an Austrian Rülander (also an orange wine), an oaked white rioja, a white Crozes Hermitage and - most surprisingly to me - a lush Newton Johnson chardonnay from Hemel-en-Aarde in South Africa

You can currently buy the 2014 vintage of the moscatel from Les Caves de Pyrène at £14.20 a bottle, Joseph Barnes Wines Direct at £15.50 and £15.99 from Handford Wines.

NB We won’t be holding a wine club in February but will be starting a new series in March. If you’d like to know when the dates and themes are confirmed send your email address to events@matchingfoodandwine.com and we’ll put you on our mailing list.

Fresh clementines and Jorge Ordonez Malaga Seleccion Especial

Fresh clementines and Jorge Ordonez Malaga Seleccion Especial

No Christmas goes by without some wine pairing discovery and this year it was the delicious Jorge Ordonez Malaga Seleccion Especial no. 1 2007 with some simple fresh clementines we had at the end of a post-Christmas meal with friends.

Despite the contemporary packaging I’d expected the Malaga to be similar to those I’d tasted before: dark, treacley and oloroso sherry-like but in fact it was wonderfully light and fresh. The wines, which are made in conjunction with famous Austrian sweet wine producer Kracher, are unfortified and aged in stainless steel.

The Seleccion Especial is apparently made from grapes that are dried on the vine and has a more concentrated almost orangey flavour than the accompanying ‘Victoria’ cuvée which is very fresh and, grapey and which I would love to try with Asian-influenced desserts with tropical fruits and mangoes or with light airy fruit-topped gateaux.

Surprising though it may sound it’s unusual for a wine with orangey notes to go with oranges, or in this case clementines. The fruit often strips the character out of the wine but this was just delicious. I suspect it might even work with Christmas pudding if you wanted a light, refreshing contrast.

The wines are easy to source in the States, slightly less so here in the UK though according to wine-searcher.com it is stocked by Cambridge Wine Merchants at the very reasonable price for this quality of £14.99 a half bottle. Hangingditch in Manchester has it for £17.50 Roberson in London for £17.95, and Harrods for a rather outrageous £19.95 (how on earth do they justify that mark-up?)

 

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